🔧 Youx #neogeo 3-4 repair session : following a BIOS installation, multiple traces were damaged. Removed the original 40p socket, installed 4x new 0.8mm copper rivets, repaired the damaged traces, installed a new 40p socket, and added a brand new #NeoPass module for awesome RGB output ! #retrogaming #arcade

@lunokaretro NeoGeo AES 3-6 repair session : black screen + corrosion 🥲 🔧 several oxidized areas, especially near the openings : the motherboard had clearly been stored in a humid environment, then hit with a cold shock 🥶 Condensation ate the traces.. Full component-side inspection under the microscope. Damaged traces repaired. Then the full package: UniBIOS, NeoPass module for sharp and clear RGB, complete capkit, power jack replacement. Result: all good. ✅ #NeoGeo #AES #RetroRepair #SNK

Tkt @RetroPoloTV, l’équipe Delta Island sera disponible pour montrer les productions et exclusivités matérielles relatives à la #neogeo #aes ! On est chaud avec @illusionrip

#neogeo #aes repair log, fast ram issue. 
The diagnostic screen in cartridge mode comes up white, but that’s not necessarily reliable with this type of fault. It's a fairly simple breakdown if nothing else interferes. Unibios piggy on the original..😂 no time to remove it today..in order to use the famous insane #briconeo tool 
Found the first corrosion on one of the VRAMs (top left).
No visible effect on tilemap, sprites or FIX layer, but it still needed fixing. •Replaced 1× VRAM •Checked the second one •Inspected under the VRAM chips •Took the opportunity to replace the pair 👌 Fast VRAM : this issue is quite common on AES, so we went straight for Fast VRAM replacement, especially given the error you reported. •Removed both Fast VRAMs, tested them and inspected underneath •One Fast VRAM is clearly dead
(dedicated to short-timing and critical video operations: dynamic sprite attributes + SCB2/3/4 render lists + active lists) •Second Fast RAM confirmed OK after burn-in 🔥 Other work •Power connector was slightly oxidized → replaced •Reset button had a “LED mod” wired directly to the regulator… not ideal and can cause instability → removed •Original video output was mediocre → installed a Neopass Final test : burn-in-test 2h 
Result → image is excellent, rock solid (1 hour with no dropouts).

#neogeo #AES repair session before September « it’s BIOS party time” 🥳 My friend « Greg Juste Greg » entrusted me with one of his AES consoles. It was tired, the BIOS needed replacing… and his soldering iron slipped 🙂😥 It happens. We’re going to try to fix this calmly 😀 Assessment: Between 8 and 10 traces cut on both sides + 9 through-hole vias with pads that are dead or partially dead. Let’s just say if the BIOS wanted time off, it couldn’t have done a better job 😂 Result: click-of-death — the console reboots in a loop because some vital components can no longer communicate with each other; a watchdog is present and triggers this behaviour. To repair this kind of thing, the essentials are: • A thorough inspection 🧐 
• A microscope (at least 10/20×)
• 0.8 mm copper PCB rivets (source : @illusionrip )
• A rivet press with the right tips (costs an arm and a leg…) or a PCB rivet pen + a punch/drift of at least 5/10 mm
• 36 AWG solid-core silver wire (not too thin — the contact has to be solid, especially with the BIOS…)
• Proper soldering gear (SK or fine tip), flux (YCS for example)
• And of course… patience. First thing: Assessment, cleaning, and multimeter testing of the traces and pads. Second thing: You have to remove the remains of the through-hole vias by clearing the leftover pads (scalpel), then carefully inserting a rivet that will push out what’s left. To do it properly without a rivet press (yes, it’s possible): Place the PCB on its edge (brace it against the microscope 😂), push the rivet fully into the hole (trace side), put the punch against the inserted rivet (trace side), then on the component side apply light pressure with the rivet pen to flare the edges of the rivet for the first time. Once it’s properly pressed, finish with the PCB flat so it’s clean, without forcing too hard (it’s copper…), and give it another light pass with the rivet pen — don’t overdo it. Do this for every rivet. Third thing: Connect the base of the rivets to the cut traces with 36 AWG wire : this is the most delicate part (form a sort of U around the copper rivet so the solder can grab). You have to judge it carefully: don’t use too much solder, but enough for it to wet properly by capillary action. Don’t hesitate to use flux so it bonds well (without drowning it). Do this on both sides for every replaced rivet. Fourth thing: Do a final continuity check on both the trace side and the component side.
If you’re fitting a BIOS socket, don’t overheat it and use flux!