A climbing training resource with articles, interviews, and training programs by top climbers and trainers.

Living The Dream (in a van)
Joined February 2013
I guess I don’t post on Instagram unless I’m in a foreign country? Workin’ on that. On this transatlantic adventure, I’m in Spain with @seth_lytton, @jonathansiegrist and @dustygene climbing in Villanueva del... facebook.com/378182182286039…
New Podcast Episode! This one is with Shaina Savoy, our lovely friend and Instagram Manager for TrainingBeta, and a savage climber. She went from sending her first 12a to sending her first 13a 6 months later, and we talk about... trainingbeta.com/media/shain…
New Podcast Episode with British climber, guide, and coach, John Kettle - Climbing Coach. I talked with John about how he was stuck on a 15-year plateau at V7 and 5.11d. He committed himself to training technique and strength for... trainingbeta.com/media/john-…
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I think we would see something similar if we did side-by-sides of climbing in the 50's compared with now. How far we've come... xitter.cf/ThingsCutInHaIf/status…
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NEW PODCAST EPISODE! I just published an interview with life coach, Remy Franklin, all about how we can prioritize our life goals (climbing and otherwise) and identify the actions we need to take to attain them. Remy used me as... trainingbeta.com/media/remy-…
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New Podcast Episode with my good friend, Brianna Greene, about how she prepared mentally and physically (but mostly mentally) to send her first 5.12a last fall. She struggled with fear of falling after a bad catch wrecked her... trainingbeta.com/media/brian…
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New Podcast Episode with Australia's first 9a climber, Tom O'Halloran. What's so special about Tom is that he's not only an exceptional climber, but he does it while working pretty much full-time AND raising a daughter with his... trainingbeta.com/media/tom-o…
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New Podcast Episode with Dr. Tyler Nelson (Camp4 Human Performance) about the device he's using (and helping to develop) to test and train finger strength. It's a custom strain gauge with an app that provides data about... trainingbeta.com/media/tyler…
New Podcast Episode with Tanner Bauer, a 15-year-old climber who's sent up to 5.14b outside and regularly stands atop podiums at comps. It was really great to hear from a well-spoken kid about what it's like to be on a team with... trainingbeta.com/media/tanne…