It’s funny how you can know someone for years and still realize you don’t really know them at all. We keep whole parts of ourselves hidden because we think people won’t get it, but the ones who stay are the ones who see through that anyway. Life gets easier when you stop performing it.

A tin of sardines costs about a pound. Here is what is inside. - More omega-3 than a £12 fish oil capsule (still in the fish, not gone rancid on a shelf) - 375% of your daily B12 (every plant on earth offers none) - A third of your vitamin D (more than a British winter gives you) - 74% of your selenium (the mineral half the country is short of) - Calcium off the bones (no dairy, softened until you can't feel them) - 25g of complete protein (every amino acid present) - Mercury at 0.013ppm (swordfish runs seventy times higher) The supplement aisle sells you that same sardine in pieces. A capsule of the oil, a tablet of the D, a tub of the selenium, forty quid the lot, half of it oxidising before you get home. Or the tin. A pound. The whole animal, everything in its right place. They keep telling you superfoods are exotic and expensive. This one's been on the bottom shelf the whole time.