A box of Atora beef suet has been sitting on British supermarket shelves since 1893, and I’m willing to bet half the people walking past it have no idea what it actually is. It is beef fat. Specifically the hard fat from around the kidneys, shredded so you can cook with it. Go through an old British cookbook and it is everywhere. Dumplings, steak and kidney pudding, jam roly poly, spotted dick, Christmas pudding, pastry. George Orwell wrote about suet crust being used in countless sweet and savoury dishes when he described British cooking in the 1940s. During rationing it was ordinary enough that lard and cooking fat had their own weekly ration. In 1950 Parliament was still listing them alongside butter, bacon, eggs, cheese and flour as basic household foods. Then everyday cooking changed. Steamed puddings disappeared from the weekly menu. Dumplings became something your nan made. Fat started arriving in bottles instead of wrapped around an animal’s kidneys. But Atora never actually went away. You can still walk into a supermarket today and buy shredded beef fat from a brand launched 133 years ago. We spend a lot of time talking about bringing traditional animal fats back. This one has been sitting on the shelf waiting for us the entire time.