Eating In Translation examines interesting, usually inexpensive food in and around New York, and occasionally farther afield.

New York
Joined June 2008
At dawn: a portion of the namesake Breton "butter cake" at Au Kouign-Amann, Montreal, and a mural across the way
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A pair of locally brewed Boréale beers from Variété Plus du Mont Royal, a dep convenient to my hotel after the long train ride (from which I've already returned) to Montreal
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Burmese, Egyptian, Greek, Indonesian, West African, and a rare opportunity to enjoy Panamanian bofe con hojaldre (shown) bit.ly/nyfoodevents-mid-octo…
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An exceptional nam khao with pickled pork — exceptional, even after I'd chowed down on a plate of grilled sai oua — at the Lao pop-up Heunkuoa, at Greenpoint, Brooklyn bar Troost, 1011 Manhattan Ave. The pop-up returns today, October 3, 4:30 till sold out. instagram.com/heunkuoa/
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Make room for an overstuffed weekend of New York-area food events: Chinese, Creole, Egyptian, Ethiopian, Filipino, German, Indian, Indonesian, Japanese, Korean, pan-Latin American, Native American, Nigerian, Romanian, Slavonic, Ukrainian, and more bit.ly/nyfoodevents-early-oc…
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A root beer freeze — though not nearly as colorful as the hand-drawn menu board, it hits the spot during the last gasp of summery weather — at The Screen Door, 4819 Skillman Ave., Sunnyside, Queens
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The most notable herb in this bún chả Hà Nội isn't heaped on the plate. Xương sông, wrapped around minced-pork patties, adds peppery and somewhat astringent notes when the two are chargrilled. It's hard to source in NYC; Ngon Vietnamese Kitchen, on Second Ave., grows its own.
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Cold sesame noodles from Pán Dà (previously known as Panda, with the usual iconography), Catherine St., Manhattan. Weighty and lush, they'll provide two meals for any reasonable appetite. Indulge in late-night noodles, available till 2:00 a.m., and enjoy leftovers when you wake!
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Seen in passing, on a much nicer day: Shad Crossing (2004), glass mosaics designed by Ming Fay and fabricated by Franz Meyer of Munich, in the Delancey St.-Essex St. station, Manhattan
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Cheesesteak kinfolk? A pirata de carne asada, in which a flour tortilla is wedded to yellow cheese before being heaped with strip steak (and onions, at your pleasure), Tacos Domingo, First Ave., Manhattan. Several options at the salsa bar; Whiz is not one of them.
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New York-area food events, September 24-30: When it's windy, it helps to have food with a handle! bit.ly/nyfoodevents-septembe…
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Rice with seafood redux: arroz chaufa de mariscos, fried Chinese-style with octopus, mussels, shrimp, squid, and perhaps clams, too, at Simple Peruvian, Ridgewood, Queens
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Thiebou djeun (white; with snapper), Mado, Adam Clayton Powell Jr. Blvd., Manhattan. Uncommon: tamarind sauce on the side, for customizing tartness. Typical: trios of men, at other tables, digging into communal portions of this Senegalese dish, each with his own tablespoon.
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Rough-and-tumble salt-baked soft-shell crabs, and the Chinese greens of the day, at Great N.Y. Noodletown, Bowery, Manhattan. Also shown: the storefront by night, years back.
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Armenian, Egyptian, Ethiopian, German, Greek, Guatemalan, Himalayan, Indonesian, Italian, Mexican, more: bit.ly/nyfoodevents-septembe…
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Pe ywet thoke, blanched pea leaf and peanut salad, and nga hin, fish curry (both comped), at Burmese Bites, recently transplanted to a sunny corner of Astoria, Queens. Looking forward to exploring the greatly expanded menu!
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Hot and sour soup, and a lunch-special baby eggplant with spicy garlic sauce, at Szechuan Gourmet, which just completed its move from West 39th to West 105th, in Manhattan Valley, on the site of the old Szechuan Garden
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A heapin' helpin' of esquites Fritos, and the makings thereof, by Frutilandia Gaby of Passaic, New Jersey, at Sunday's Festival México Herencia Hispana, East 116th St., Manhattan
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Cheesecake, decorated with caramel and chocolate, from the Metamorfosis stand, raising money for senior care in Acapa, Municipio de Tlahuiltepa, Hidalgo, at Sunday's Festival México Herencia Hispana, East 116th St., Manhattan
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Armenian, Central American, Egyptian, Ethiopian, Filipino, Greek, Himalayan, Indonesian — New York-area food events, September 10-16 — Italian, Korean, Macedonian, Mexican, Middle Eastern, Norwegian, Polish, Ukrainian, Vietnamese bit.ly/nyfoodevents-septembe…
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